PERFECTING THE BISCUIT

Photography by James River Media

Biscuits are a relatively simple baked good, better made at home and served hot, fresh out of the oven. Essentially, they are flour, fat and liquid, but achieving that iconic, fluffy, perfect biscuit is harder than it looks. Many bakers, myself included, admit that learning to make biscuits is a journey that spans over years. 

There are any number of tips out there for making the perfect fluffy Southern biscuit: the type and temperature of the fat used, the type of flour, how the dough is handled, the oven temperature and more. I could write an entire dissertation on all of this, but for the sake of efficiency (and my editor’s demands of sticking within a certain word count), I’m just going to include everything you need to know in the recipe. Well, almost everything, with one caveat: flour. 

Not all flours are created alike. White Lily Flour is made with soft red winter wheat, which is lower in protein content than other all-purpose flours and produces a fluffier biscuit. One can substitute cake flour for a portion of regular all-purpose flour for the same result that one sees with using White Lily Flour. If you can find White Lily All Purpose Flour, then disregard the use of cake flour in the following recipes and just use all White Lily Flour.

Fluffy Good Biscuits 
Yield: 8-10 biscuits depending on the size of your cutter. 

• 3 cups flour (21/2 cups all-purpose flour + ½cup cake flour OR 3 cups White Lily all-purpose flour) 
• 41/2 teaspoons baking powder 
• ¾ teaspoon cream of tartar 
• 1 Tablespoon sugar 
• 1/2 teaspoon salt 
• 3/4cup cold fat – could be all unsalted butter or 1/2 cup unsalted butter, 1/4 lard/ bacon fat 
• 1 egg, beaten 
• 1/2 cup cream 
• 1/2 cup milk or buttermilk 

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Mix dry ingredients together. Cut in the cold fat in two batches so that the first round is miniscule, the second round closer to pea size or smaller. (Note: You can use a food processor, a pastry cutter OR your hands to incorporate the fat into the flour mix.) Combine cream, milk and egg, pour into the dry mix. Stir together with a fork, then using your fingers, combine until the mixture forms a soft ball. (You may need to add more milk, but no more than 1/4 of a cup.) Turn out onto a floured counter, mat or cutting board. Pat down until about 3/4″ thick. To cut biscuits, dip your cutter (glass, cookie cutter, biscuit cutter, etc.) in flour and go straight up and down in the dough, not twisting. Place your biscuits close together on an ungreased pan (or lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet for easier clean up). Chill biscuits for a minimum of 10 minutes. (This helps the flour absorb the fat for a better rise.) Place in oven, and bake for 10-12 minutes.

Sweet Potato Biscuits
Of course, one needs several good biscuit recipes in their recipe box for a variety of occasions. Sweet potato biscuits are another classic Southern biscuit that are a tasty addition to any meal. 

• 2 cups all-purpose flour + ½cup cake flour OR 21/2 cups White Lily all-purpose flour
• 4 teaspoons baking powder 
• 1 tablespoon sugar 
• 1 teaspoon salt 
• 8 Tablespoons cold unsalted butter 
• ¼cup milk
• 1 pound sweet potatoes, cooked and pureed, about 1 ¾ cups
• 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Stir together dry ingredients. Cut butter into flour until the butter resembles small peas. (You can use a food processor, pastry blender or your fingers.) Combine milk with sweet potato puree, then combine with flour mix until just incorporated. Knead a few times, then pat out to ½” thickness on floured surface. Cut biscuits out and place them close together on baking sheet. Chill for 10 minutes, then bake for 12 minutes or until risen and slightly brown. For a fun variation, add freshly chopped rosemary to the flour mix. 

TOPPINGS FOR YOUR BISCUITS

Apple Pie Jam
Homemade biscuits call for homemade jam. This is a favorite of my family’s this time of year. It keeps for several weeks in the fridge (if it lasts that long) or can be hot water bathed for longer storage in your pantry. Yield: 2 half-pint jars 

• 3 cups peeled, cored, chopped apples (about a pound) 
• Grated zest and juice of ½lemon 
• Dash of apple cider, apple juice or water 
• ½cup sugar 
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 
• ¼teaspoon fresh grated ginger 

In a non-reactive pot, combine apples, lemon zest and juice, and apple juice. Boil gently for 30 minutes, or until apples begin to soften. Mash apples with a wooden spoon or a potato masher, if needed. Add sugar all at once and stir constantly. Bring mixture to a full, rolling boil, and cook until set. Remove from heat and stir in spices. Skim foam off the top. Ladle jam into hot jars leaving 1/4″ headspace. Process for 10 minutes in a hot water bath if storing longer. 

TOPPINGS FOR YOUR BISCUITS

Fried Oyster and Ham Biscuits with Lemon Caper Mayonnaise
While biscuits are usually served with butter, honey or jam, they are also excellent as the basis for a breakfast sandwich or, best of all, when paired with Virginia country ham. Or go completely over-the-top and add a fried oyster to your country ham biscuit!

FRIED OYSTERS:
Oysters, freshly shucked1/2 cup seasoned flour1 egg, beatenDash of milk or buttermilk1/2 cup cornmeal1/4 cup Panko crumbs1/4 cup finely ground roasted pecansOil for frying

Heat oil to 375 degrees. Put seasoned flour in a shallow bowl. Combine egg and milk in another bowl. Combine flour, cornmeal, panko and pecans in a separate bowl. Dredge oysters in seasoned flour. Dip into egg mixture. Coat with seasoned blend. Fry in hot oil until golden, taking care to not crowd oysters. Remove from oil and drain on plate.

LEMON CAPER MAYONNAISE:

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise 
• 1 Tablespoon capers, finely chopped2 Tablespoons horseradish 
• Lemon zest and lemon juice from ¼lemon 
• Few drops of caper juice 

Combine all ingredients and chill until ready to use.

FRIED OYSTER AND COUNTRY HAM BISCUITS:

• Biscuits
• Prepared country ham, thinly shaved
• Fried oysters
• Lemon caper mayonnaise

Split biscuits in half. Add a few pieces of country ham to one biscuit half. Top with fried oyster. Spread a thin layer of lemon caper mayo on the other biscuit half. Assemble and serve. ✦